We are proud to say we're a family owned business. So we care more because our name is on the door. We know the importance of appliances in your daily living, so we work hard to provide the service you deserve. If you have appliance problems, Call Mr Rogers.

Our Services at a Glance

  • Washer
  • Refrigerator
  • Dishwasher
  • Dryer
  • Stove / Oven


Troubleshooting On Laundry - Washers / Washing Machines

Common Washer (Washing Machine) Problems


We are very confident that almost every house in the United States has a washer. It makes our life easier and most of us use it at least once a week. This appliances doesn't last forever, someday they start having issues or problems that doesn't allow the washer work properly. The real question would be how long can this appliances work before breaking down. How much would it cost to fix the washer at this point. When you get into this situation, Mr Rogers is ready to help you by offering you a top quality appliance repair service in Greenville, Greer, Spantarburg and Surrounding Areas. Don't allow a faulty washer to break your daily routine. Our washing machine certified technicians can help you repair your faulty washer at a reasonable and affordable price, and the best part, you can have peace of mind, since we offer a very strong warranty on every repair. If you don't have a service agreement or maintenance agreement for your appliances it's very possible you will have washer problems in the future

Below you will find a list Mr Rogers wrote for you to be able to identify some common washer issues you may have at home. We offer washer repair service of all major brands to Greenville, Greer, Taylors, Mauldin, Fountain Inn, Simpsonville, Spartanburg and Surrounding Area in South Carolina. For a list of brands we service click here.

Washer Issue / Problem # 1 - Washer not turning on, not starting, no power

With so many components involved in the operation of a washer, there could be several faulty components. You would need to start a diagnostic test methodically. So start with the power source. Make sure the washer is getting around 110 volts and that any fuse involve is ok. You can test fuses by using a multimeter and testing the continuity. After making sure the electricity for the washing machine has no problems, check the following.

Drain Pump 

Door latch / Door lock assembly

Main wiring harness cable & terminal block connections

Main power switch

Control PCB (Main Control Board) and User Interface

If you feel you need an expert appliance technician to fix your washer machine not turning on or starting just call Mr Rogers. 

Washer Issue Problem #2 - Washing machine not draining or is noisy on drain

Most of the time the cause of this issue is related to the drain pump, could be shorted or clogged. So check the following:

Drain pump Clogged or Blockage

Drain pump Shorted / Defective

Drain Hose clogged, Drain pipe Clogged

Sump hose blocked

Object in drain pump

Unit unbalanced, poor flooring or bad installation

If you need a technician to diagnose your washing machine that is not draining properly or performs a noisy operation, call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair Service. 

Washer Issue - Problem #3 - Washer machine noisy when running

See above, the section for "Washer not draining", a drain pump shorted, as this can cause a very annoying noise from the washer, especially when something is stucked in the washer drain pump.

Also, items stucked in between the outer tub and drum assembly can also cause a grinding noise when the washer starts spinning. It is very common to find items stucked in between the tubs, items such as bra wires which can also cause damage to the washer or other clothes washing theses things. If you can, remove the wires before washing. If you have this problem you will need a certified technician fix it for you since the tech would need to open the tub assembly.

To reduce this from happening you can use a wash bag for the samller items, this can prevent these items to get stucked between the drum and outer tub.

If the washer is a few years old then there's the chance the bearings are worn out, faulty, collapsed or just starting to go bad. When the problem is the bearings it is recommended to replace them as soon as possible, since hey can damage the other components in the washer. If you are sure this is the problem, you can minimize the loads to avoid further damage.

Stability can also cause excessive noise, especially where the machine is on a wooden or floating floor. If the suspension kit is defective, this can cause a loud noise too. To diagnose this problem check the following:

Noisy drain pump

Items clogged in the drain pump

Object stucked in the tub or drum assembly

Bearings defective, worn out or faulty

Washing machine unbalanced, not leveled properly

Faulty dampers or worn out suspensions

Unit unbalanced, poor flooring or bad installation

If youneed to fix your noisy washer you can call Mr Rogers Appliances and a factory trained technician will be there to help you repair your faulty appliance. 

Washer Issue -  Problem #4 - Washer drum not agitating

Usually when people encounter this situations, they think the problem is a faulty belt. It could be the cause, but most of modern washer machines don't use belts anymore. And since a different mechanism is involved in he agitating process, other components would need to be checked.

The cause for this problem these days is more liable to be the motor control also known as the speed control PCB.

Assuming everything else works these should be checked:


Speed control PCB or Motor Control board

Motor capacitor

Main control module

Motor Shorted

Door lock or Door Lid Switch

Mr Rogers is here to help you fix your washer. Call us now and schedule an appointment to repair your appliance in the Greenville, South Carolina Area. 

Washer Issue - Problem #5 - Washer timer not going through cycles

This is a very tricky one, since most of the times when he washer is not advancing through cycles people think the problem is with the timer, or  control board not working properly. So there's a high probability that even if you think the problem is the timer, you might be wrong.

Usually the timer will advance to a certain stage before stopping and that gives us a huge lead on diagnosis on what the actual problems is. The timer is like the brain in the washer, it control the others components, so when one of this components is defective, the unit will not advance into the normal operation. So the stage where the timer stops is a lead to know what the real problem is.

What this means is that almost any component could be the source of failure. If you're not sure,  we highly recommend you seek professional appliance techncian, if you spend $120 or more on a timer or board and you're wrong there is a high possibility that it will be non-returnable part.

If you're not sure about the problems with your washer call Mr Rogers Appliances and ask for a technician to visit your house and tell you what the real problem with your washer is. We offer a Free Service Call with the repair, so don’t think twice and call Mr Rogers now and get your appliance repair done. 

Washer Issue - Problem #6 - Washer not heating

This is very easy to diagnose, most of the times you will find a heater shorted, defective thermostat, thermistor or pressure switch but there can be other possible causes. Check if the following components are working fine:

Heater Assembly

Thermostat, Cycling and Hi Limit Thermostat

Thermistor, Sensor

Pressure switch / water level sensor

Timer or control PCB / module

If you couldn’t identify the problem by yourself you can call a certified washer technician to help you on that, or just ask Mr Rogers to send you a specialist to your home to get your washer working again. 

Washer Issue - Problem #7 - Washer is vibrating a lot

If your washer was recently installed there is a chance the shipping bolts were not removed. Check the owner manual to read instructions on how to remove them.

AIf the washer has been installed a time ago, the problem can be flooring or a bad installation. Most of the times would be a suspension problem. And of course there could be other componentnd involved. So check the following to identify the source of the problem:

Suspension Kit

Bearing failure 

If you need help to repair your washer you can Call Mr Rogers Appliances and ask a certified technician to assist you. 

Washer Issue - Problem #8 - Washer not spinning

In 20 years the washer belt was always blamed for this issue, bu there are no many washers that work with a belt these days. So a faulty belt is not a very common issue, though is possible.

See the previous "Washer Issue Problem #4 - Washer drum won't turn" as many of the problems described there can be mirrored to this problem.

But before proceeding remember very carefully, if the washer is not draining or not fully draining, most likely the unit would not go into the spin cycle. So keep in mind that this could be caused by a faulty drain pump too. But also check the following washer components.

Speed control PCB / main control board / user interface module

Faulty or worn out belt

Faulty contacts on timer

Capacitor shorted (when available)

Faulty motor, Stator or Rotor on Direct Drive Washers

Faulty shorted hall sensor

Drain pump clogged or drain pipe obstructed

Overloaded or out of balance, more noticeable when a bad installation or flooring

Worn out bearings

Door latch / Door Lock shorted

Faulty defective pressure switch

If you think the best option is to have a expert appliance technician check your washer, you can call Mr Rogers Appliances Repair service anytime.

Washer Issue - Problem #9 - Washer not filling water

First of all, check if there is water coming to the water valve.

AIf you checked and the water supply is properly installed, you might assumed the problem to be the water valve. But there are other components involved in this process, not just the water valve. There could be a defective pressure switch, or electronic components such as the main control board not supplying electricity to the water valve assembly. Sometimes it is assumed to have a faulty water valve, but if the appliance doesn't not start at all, the water valve will never be activated. So check the following components:

Water supply

Water fill valve

Pressure or Water Level switch

Control PCB / Main Control Board / Door lock

Get help from appliance specialists, call Mr Rogers to get a technician to help you fix your washer. 

Washer Issue - Problem #10 - Washer not cleaning properly

Nowadays with help of the Internet you can find tons of amounts of information to help you find ways of using the washer machine properly. You can find manuals yo help you with this issue.

You can search for washer manuals such as: 

How to use detergent correctly

Washer maintenance 

Overloading and the problems it causes  and how affects the performance.

If you can’t find any useful manual, you can call Mr Rogers Appliances and a certified technician will diagnose correctly your washer. Located in Greenville, South Carolina and serving surrounding areas such as Greer, Taylors, Mauldin, Spartanburg,Fountain Inn and others. 

Washer Issue - Problem # 11 Bad smell coming from the washer

AAfter doing an extensive research on Internet you might find that this problem is always associated with mould problems. Most of the times is caused by dirty door gaskets, or dirty soap dispensers. It can also be coming from the drain system, so the best for your health would be to have a technician run a full diagnose. 

If you feel like this bad odor coming from the washer is affecting your daily life, call us at Mr Rogers Appliances and we'll gladly help you.  

Washer Issue - Problem #12 - Washer machine lights flash but will not turn on

Most likely this is related to the Main Control Board and the User Interface. It could be a fault code trying to tell you something. Until you find out what this error code means you might not be able to move further. 

Mr Rogers Appliances technicians are very knowledgeable. Call us now and we will help you with your faulty washer showing a fault code. Call Mr Rogers and an appliance repair technician will be at your door. 

Washer Problem #13 - Washing machine leaks from the front

Perhaps one of the most common issues on a washer machine. So when you see your washer leaking, you need to call a expert technician to fix your washer right away before the water leak does more damage to your washer. First, check if the soap dispenser is broken or clogged. Keep in mind that if its clean water you might not be able to detect it due to its transparency. Some appliances will show an error code telling you there's a leak problem. 

Of course the door gasket or bellow can leak and, most of the time you would need to replace them. Also mold can build up and damage the gasket, causing a leak in the washer.So check the following:

Soap Dispenser and housing

Soap Detergeng Housing and tub hose

Door Gasket Below Boot

Door glass or Door Assembly

If you were not able to detect the cause of your washer leaking you can call a technician from Mr Rogers Appliances and ask for some help. 

Washer Problem #14 - Washing machine leaking from underneath

Another very common issue, and it could be anything. Water follows laws of gravity, so any component were water goes through could be the source of the leak. 

Drain pump leak

Drain Filter leak

Tub gasket leaking

Hose split kinked

Hose leaking (any of them)

Water pressure way too high

Heater gasket worn out

Door seal, bellow boot

Pressure switch or water level

Physical tub drum damage

Soap dispenser broken

If you need help to stop stop your washer leak call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair now. We service Greenville, Taylors, Greer, and Surrounding Areas 

Washer Issue Problem #15 - Washer  Dryer  Problems

Washer dryer combos are really complicated. As technicians we don't like them much, because they are very problematic. are, frankly, a nightmare in a white box. In general the technicians hate them as they are more problematic, harder to work on and have a tendency not to live up to the promises and people's expectations. So, if it's a performance issue that you're having with the dryer there's probably nothing wrong with it, they're pretty much all bad.

Remember that, in addition to the following, washer dryers share every fault listed for washing machines as well!

Actual condenser dryers are okay these days although the cheaper ones do tend to give more trouble than the better built machines. They are more complex though so if you're not sure, just get in a pro to look at it.

Heat pump dryers are specialist only affairs, we would strongly recommend that if you have a fault on one to not touch it yourself. 

Washer Issue Problem #16 - Washer not drying

A very normal situation you might encounter on a washer machine. It a very common issue but can be cause by multiple faulty components. So check the following:

Water valve Shorted

Heating Elemen Shorted

Cycling Thermostat or Hi Limit Shorted

Pressure Switch shorted

Drain pump defective

Washer not spinning properly, not fully draining water. 

 Washer Problem #17 - Washer dryer leaks on dry

This could confuse even the most experienced technician, but usually the problem would be one of these components:

Gasket Bellow Worn out or torn

Hose Kinked, broken, defective

Drain pump leaking 

Washer Problem #18 - Washer dryer noisy on dry

This one could be very tricky, so your best option would be to contact Mr Rogers Appliances to get an expert appliance techncian to help you. 


Read More


Common problems on Refrigerators, Freezers or Fridge


We are very confident about every home, or at least almost every home in the United States have a type of refrigerator, could be a small cu ft mini fridge, or a large Top mount, Side by Side or Frenchdoor refrigerator with an icemaker. If you have any of these type of fridges believe me, someday you will face problems with them. When these appliances fail, you would definitely need the help of a specialized certified technician, since this type of appliances requires a special certification from the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency), if you are going to work into the Sealed System of the refrigerator, which includes the compressor, drier filter, evaporator coils, condenser coils, and the refrigerator, which on most refrigerator nowaday would be R-134. They used to have R-22 but the EPA has banned that type of refrigerant, also know as Freon. Some high-end appliances are using r-410a which is the refrigerator most air conditioner units used. This makes the a more enery efficient refrigerator. 

Like we mentioned before, the sealed system, also know as gas system, included he compressor assembly, and all the copper tubing and aluminum tubing that makes the evaporator coils. You need a special certification if you want to work on the sealed system. High fines are paid to those who work sealed system and are not certified. You might want to know why? Freon gas is the most harmful substance to the ozone layer, due to its chlorine content. So a certified technician needs to know how to handle these refrigerants, how to recover, dispose and recharge without allowing his gas to escape to the atmostphere. Our technicians at Mr Rogers Appliances are fully certified to work any type of appliance. Give us a call to get more information on our Refrigerator Repair Service. We repair all major brands and we offer a strong warranty on every repair. 

If you want to learn some basics on how refrigeration works on domestic or residential fridges we can share some knowledge. We can say there are two types of refrigeration used on residential appliances. Falling air and forced air, and its very important to know the differences if you want to know where to look at. 

Falling Air  Refrigerators

The term "falling air" talks about refrigerator by the effect of "falling" air from the evaporator. 

This really isn't that efficient but it is very reliable as it minimizes the use of moving parts and is very old technology, but also very robust. One of the big problems is that you get temperature differentials between the bottom, where the cold air falls to first, and the top where the heat rises to. It also means that when you open the door, either fridge or freezer, that the cold air at the bottom rushes out making the unit work hard again to re-establish the correct temperature.

Manual defrosting is a must in any unit using this system that has any freezing capability.

These units are normally controlled by a single simple thermostat although electronics are increasingly being employed to improve the efficiency somewhat.

Forced Air Refrigerators And Freezers


It means the air will pass through the evaporator coils to get heat removed. Refrigeration works by removing the heat from substances. In this case you will get cold air by having the heat removed from the air falling into the evaporator coils. The evaporator coils is the tubing where the refrigerator evaporates. When freon evaporates, it absorbs heat, so that's why you will feel the coils very  cold.

The term "Forced air" means where the air is "forced", usully by a fan, also know as the evaporator fan motor, the air is forced into the evaporator coils and then into the refrigerator or freezer. The effect is almost the same to having a blast of cold air. This method is used in the frost-free refrigerator. Though they are not completely frost free, since over time there is ice build up in the evaporator coils. So the refrigerator needs to have a sort of defrost cycle at least every 24 hours.

So most of the times and one of the common issues of a refrigerator will be the defrost cycle, which involves a defrost timer, or electronic defrost board, a bimetal thermostat, the heating element, and sometimes a sensor or thermistor. 

So it's necessary the refrigerator goes periodically into a defrost cycle. This will be determined by the defrost timer, which could be a 8-hr , 12-hr or 16hr timer. The defrost cycle will run multiple times, to make sure the refrigerator does not have ice build up, since this ice build up can create blockages and prevent the air to flow freely. If a unit has a defrost cycle, the temperatures will go down over time. 

Safety First When Repairing Fridges And Freezers

If you want an expert refrigerator repair technician give us a call at Mr Rogers Appliances, which serve All Greenville and Greer Area. We can guarantee you will receive a top quality service, at an affordable and fair price and wih the strongest warranty in town.

We consider refrigerators as a danger, or emergency, and you might consider it the same too. 

If you refrigerator is not working properly, then your food might bo bad. If the food starts to decompose, bacteria and mold can start to build up. In order to extend the lifetime of your groceries, you need to have the refrigerator at ideal temperature, which are on the freezer side between 0 - 10 Fareneheit, and the refrigerator side between 35 - 39 Degrees Farenheit. This temperatures slows the degradation of the food and maximize their lifetime. If you don't fix your refrigerator on time, you risk to lose your food, and risk your health.

If by any reason your freezer defrost, lost temperatures and the food is "soft", you have already lost the groceries. You can't refreeze it again, since it degraded and mmost likely bacteria build up. This could be a disease risk with some foods, specially on meats, such as poultry and fish.

Common Refrigerator & Fridge Freezer Issues

Fridge or freezer freezing everything

To start, if you live in a city where there is lot of humidity, this could be a cause. If the refrigerator door is not closed properly, humidity can come into the unit, this humidity will eventually freeze and creates an ice build up. Either way, it can also be related to a mechanical or electrical failure. We can say this is a common issue in refrigerators.

The most simple refrigerators are control by a contro thermostat, which can easily be checked with a multimeter. This electro mechanic components are no so complex. It just turns on and off the unit when it reaches to certain temperature. So a faulty thermostat can cause the unit not to turn on, or keep a compressor running all the time. Most of the times is very simple to replace this components in the refrigerator. Is very common to find mechanical thermostats in refrigerators, but as technology progress, this are bein replaced with electronic control boards and thermistors, also known as sensors. If you don't feel condifent about diagnosing a faulty thermostat or control board, call Mr Rogers Appliances from Greenville and get an expert refrigerator technician do it for you. Is very easy to get confused on this one, so don't take the risk. 

If you really want to do it yourself, it is very important to know when replacing the thermostat, not to kink or break the vial. This vial contains a special substance which expands and contracts with temperature changes, and this makes the fridge thermostat work. You could check the following:

Refrigerator door gaskets, worn out, loose or not closing properly.

Control thermostat or control board shorted.

Freezer Door not sealing correctly

Cabinet problems, also known as insulation problems.

Restriction in evaporator coils, also know as freon line.

If you need an expert technician to assess your appliance situation in professional manner, you can Call Mr Rogers Appliance Repair from Greenville, Greer SC and an appliance specialist will be there to help you. 

Fridge not cooling properly.

The first component to check would be the control thermostat, since a thermostat failure will cause the refrigerator to not turn on at all of overfreeze the unit, causing an ice build up in the air vents going to the refrigerator side. However, a thermostat failure is not very common in a refrigerator. You can check if the compressor is running, or completely off.

Compressor Assembly Shorted

Compressor PTC

Compressor relay / overload kit

Control Thermostat

Electronic control board shorted

Thermistor or sensor shorted

If the refrigerator is cooling but not cooling enough, there's a chance that you have a restriction in the freon line. This means that there is a blockage in the evaporator coils, preventing the freon gas, or refrigerant, to flow freely. The refrigerator needs to evaporate completely in he evaporator coils to start absorbing heat through th coils. You can also have a freon leak, and the unit could be low on refrigerant. Even though a freon leak its an issue you will notice gradually, unless there is physical damage in he copper pipes.

You could try to diagnose this yourself, but this is an experts area, but the reasons of failure could be the following.

Unit low on refrigerant, most likely on appliances under a year old.

Restriction in evaporator coils, blockage in freon line.

Refrigerant valve on dual evaporator refrigerators

Compressor not working properly. Working weak Usually on refrigerators older than 8 years) 

Freezer side not cooling, not freezing.


SThis issue is very similar to the issue described above. So if you have a freezer no cooling enough it might be the same happening to the refrigerator side.

Mr Rogers refrigerator expert technicians can also help you repair your refrigerator in Greenville, Greer, Taylors area. 

Refrigerator has bad odor

We can mention several reasons a refrigerator can have a bad odor. So before touching any component we highly recommend you to call an appliance techncian to assis you. You can call Mr Rogers Appliances to have an specialist assist you in Greenville, Greer, Mauldin, Taylors and Surrounding Areas. 

 Refrigerator leaking water underneath

On non freezing unit, also know as self defrosting refrigetor. whenever the unit goes into defrost cyle, the ice build up created in the evaporator coils melts. This water is drained though a pipe also know as the drain pipe. If this drain pipe is clogged, then every time the unit goes into defrost cycle, the drain will overflow.

The drain pipe can be clogged by small pieces of food, or even dust or dirt. You can see a hole in the freezer side. This hole needs to be cleared since the water is drain through it.

What happens is that the water runs forward and produces a "leak from the fridge" and this is the most common reason for it by far.

Of course there are other possible reasons as well including:

Cabinet problems 

Defrost tray overfilled or damaged

Defective water filter or filter housing

At Mr Rogers Appliance Repair we can definitely help you fix the leaking refrigerator. Give us a call. 

I made a small hole while removing ice from the unit and is not cooling now, what's wrong?

Bad news, but your refrigerator / freezer has just died.  

We have seen this happened before, and there's not much we could do to save it. If you go with a sharp or metal to defrost the refrigartor there is a high chance you can pierce the pipe in the refrigerator. If you pierce the pipes, the refrigerator will go out. And without refrigerant the unit won't cool at all.

If you have this issue with your appliance, there's not much you can do to save your appliance. 

We can say that if you have a French Door Type refrigerator, such as GE, Maytag, Electrolux, Whirlpool or other major brands, it might be worth it to try to save it. Usually this repairs are over $ 200 with no way to guarantee to unit will work properly. 

The Refrigerator has condensation build up around.

T You will notice this is a very common issue in Top Mount Refrigerators. Is what is known as the "anti-condensate" line, a line of hot refrigerant that flows behind the door division to stop condensation forming at the door seal.

To prevent this from happening we would recommend you to improve the room temperature.


Refrigerator freezer is very noisy

The reason for a noisy refrigerator is very limited to a couple of components. Since the only moving parts the refrigerator has is the evaporator fan motor, the condensator fan motor and the compressor itself. 

Some refrigerators will also have a damper motor, which makes noise when moving to. Though the most common reason a fan will make noise would be caused by ice build up in the freezer section. This ice build up would cause the fan blades to produce a screeching noise. So this could be related to the cooling section. Could be a shorted control thermostat. It could also be caused by a defective defrost system. Usually the components involved in the defrost system is the heating element, thermistor, bimetal thermostat, and timer defrost or electronic defrost board.

You need to also check if there is humidity coming into the refrigerator, since this can also cause the ice buildup. So also check if the refrigerator doors are closing properly. If humidity starts to come into the freezer section, this will create ice the fan blades will hit when moving.


Evaporator Fan motor shorted

Ice build up, fan blade hitting the ice

Thermostat shorted causing the freezer to overfreeze 

Air vents frosted

Compressor defective – noisy operation

If you have this refrigerator problem you need to call an appliance certified technician from Mr Rogers Appliances. 

My Freezer has lots of ice build up?

We recommend you to see previous section.

Check the following components;

Evaporator fan motor shorted

Ice build up, fan blades hitting ice build up

Control thermostat shorted causing ice build up

Air vents frosted, blocked or obstructed 

 Refrigerator side not cooling enough

This is a very common issue on Side by Side refrigeraors, but can also happen with any other fridge that works with fan motors. The cold air is pulled from the freezer and drawn into the refrigerator side.

Evaporator fan motor shorted

Ice build up, fan blades touching the ice

Thermostat failure

Electronics failure

Compressor weak

Need to fix your refrigerator? Call Mr. Rogers Appliances now 

Fridge freezer not working at all

This is very easy to diagnose for the technician, but often not for do it yourselfers.

First of all, check the electricity. Make sure the outlet and fuses are ok. If everything looks fine check the following.

Compressor Shorted

Electronic Control Board defective

Compressor overload

Compressor relay kit

Terminal block, power cord.

If you need a certified EPA technician to help you with your faulty fridge call Mr Rogers Appliances of Greenville, Greer.  

Fridge Freezer Icemaker not working

On this refrigerator issue you need to be very careful. Most technicians out there will tell you to replace everything. And of course,as a professional technician this is not the real world scenario. A certified technician such as Mr Rogers Appliances staff, will be able to determine which is the source of the problem.

If you see no water at all in the icemaker tray, most likely you are dealing with a shorted water valve. But not always the problems is the water valve, it could also be an expired filter, or a clogged filter housing. 

Usually ice makers assemblies are simple components. Unfortunately manufacturers are now using electronics in the icemaker too. Making these repairs slightly more expensive.

This doesn't mean the icemaker can't go bad itself, but is a rare scenario. When they don't have electronics they are usually reliable parts.

If your Icemaker is not working and you want to fix it you can call Mr Rogers anytime to get an appliance expert assist you. 

Where do I get a water filter for my fridge freezer?

Call Mr Rogers Appliances and we will gladly help you get a new water filter. 

Bottle holder broken in fridge

Call Mr Rogers Appliances and we will gladly help you fix you bottle holder. 

Glass shelf in fridge broken

Call Mr Rogers Appliances and we will gladly help you get a glass shelf. 




Read More


How To Repair A Dishwasher


It amazes us constantly how people think that a dishwasher is a desperately simple device, in some ways it is, but other than a drum and bearings (although other parts make up for them) there are as many parts in a dishwasher as there is in a washing machine. In fact, a dishwasher can often be more complex and expensive to manufacture than a washing machine!

To get the best possible service we recommend to call Mr Rogers before doing anything by yourself. Sometimes you can get more faults by trying to fix one. Get a certified technician check your faulty dishwasher.

Dishwashers (Dish), refrigeration (Cooling) and cooking appliances common faults are shown in the other links in the menu above.

Dishwashers are constructed as a big empty tank (usually stainless steel but sometimes a resin or plastic) into which you place cutlery (in a basket) and plates on the racks. This means that all the bits that "do stuff" are around that big empty space, this means that they are crammed into small spaces and it can be hard to work on these machines, as well as dangerous as some of the edges are literally razor sharp, so great care is required.

Normally all the main electrical components these days will be located in the door and in the base, below the bottom of the inner tank. Access is normally gained by the way of an inspection panel at the front and/or back as well as removing the inner door.

Remember it's cramped, it can have sharp edges, moving parts and can carry a current, even when switched off with the plug out, so take care.

Common Dishwasher Problems

Dishwasher won't start or power up

I suppose getting the first "that could be almost anything problem" out the way first is probably best. This could be almost anything...

First things first, check the electricity supply and also the fuse in the plug. If the machine is integrated (built-in) you may be about to find out how idiotic some kitchen installers really are as, more often than not, the plug will be behind the machine and you'll have to drag the whole lot out just to change the fuse.

Obviously you would now check the mains cable and also the mains terminal block to make sure that they're okay.

Next, as with the washing machine, you need to locate and check the mains filter which will look like a capacitor but with more terminals on it. Be careful, mains filters and capacitors can retain a charge even when power is totally removed and should be discharged to make safe before testing.

After this we're into the realms of PCB's or timers, possible wiring loom problems (common where the wiring is fed through the door) and the obvious main on/off switch.

Plug, socket and fuse

Mains cable and terminal block

Mains filter

Door wiring

Main on/off switch

PCB or timer

Call Mr Rogers and ask for a dishwasher technician to help you with your faulty dishwasher.

Dishwasher lights flash or error code displayed and won't start

This will, in almost any dishwasher from the past decade, be a fault code. The dishwasher is basically telling you that it has detected a problem of some kind and that, without a resolution, it cannot continue with the program. Very often this sort of error will result in the dishwasher being totally inoperative and it will not accept a program at all. Without knowing what to check and what the error being displayed is it is virtually impossible to offer any sort of guidance as the codes vary, not just between various brand names, but even from model to model.

So if this error code appears in your dishwasher call Mr Rogers and let a certified dishwasher technician check your dishwasher.

Dishwasher noisy, makes noise when washing

When reported this fault will depend on several factors, the main ones being what sort of noise, when in the program and what machine it actually is. So there are many variables here.

However, things to check would be:

Spray arms or mounts faulty

Main recirculation motor

Drain pump faulty

Drain pump jammed or object trapped

Object in main recirculation impeller housing

If you couldn’t repair your dishwasher call Mr Rogers and ask for dishwasher repair service. Same day services call available.

Dishwasher won't drain water or empty

Yet again this can vary from machine to machine but, in general, it will signify a fault with either the pump or the house plumbing. The reason that it can vary is that some dishwashers use the recirculation motor in reverse to drain the tank, so it can mean that the main motor is faulty and that there actually a drain pump fitted at all essentially as a cost-cutting method in our opinion.

Drain pump faulty

Drain pump jammed or object trapped

Object in main recirculation impeller housing

Main recirculation motor

Mr Rogers has factory trained technicians to assist you in your dishwasher problems. Call now and let the appliances experts help you.

Dishwasher won't wash

We get this fault reported as shown in the question but it can often signify a number of possible failures.

What we often find is that what is actually meant is that the spray arms are not turning or are not turning well enough to really do much of anything. Of course this can be caused by many things, lots of which are very much dependent on both the make and model of the dishwasher.

The most common, on machines where there is a capacitor for the motor, will mean that the capacitor is faulty and the motor is running weak or slow.

Another possible cause is that the "tube" has split internally on dishwasher machines where that is used. This is the "C" shaped water delivery tube that feeds the upper and lower spray arms on some models, when it splits there is a loss of pressure to the spray arms and therefore you get a drop in spray pressure and the dishes are not washed correctly. The same effect can be seen by the spray arm housings splitting on some models.

However, probably the most common cause of this is the main recirculation motor with either the capacitor faulty, the main pump impeller jammed or broken up as most of them are made from plastic or the main motor itself being faulty.

Spray arms blocked

Pressure loss

"C-Tube" split

Motor capacitor faulty

Main recirculation motor impeller jammed or fault

Main recirculation motor faulty

Need you Dishwasher repair? Call Mr Rogers. We serve Brandon , Riverview and Tampa Bay Area.

Poor wash results from the dishwasher

First thing to be doing if you have poor wash results is to look at the filters and also the spray arms.

It could be a problem with the load patterns, spray arms, detergents and a lot more.

Sometimes the dishwasher manual will outline the most common reasons why dishes being dirty are a common complaint because, all too often, it is a case of user error, not a fault on the dishwasher's part. Of course it can be, but you'd be better to eliminate the obvious before either delving inside the machine or calling a technician.

If you need to clean your dishwasher, or to improve the dishwasher results you can call Mr Rogers and have a dishwasher specialist fix the dishwasher.

The dishes have grit on them, what's that?

This must be the number one complaint we get on the phone about poor wash results in a dishwasher. Loads of people seem to think that, somehow as if by magic, that the dishwasher can create grit or sand on the dishes. The sort of it is that it can't and doesn't, this is in 99.9% of cases simple user error.

This problem needs to be treated by a professional, so call Mr Rogers and ask for a dishwasher expert to repair the dishwasher.

The dishwasher is leaking from the door

A leak from the door can be as straightforward as a faulty seal door seal but, in some cases it's not quite so simple and we are often asked for door seals which we will supply quite happily, only for the owner to discover that wasn't really the problem.

You see there's a commonly held belief that water comes into a dishwasher and that it rises above the bottom door seal, this is not so. What actually happens is that the water is supposed to stop filling before  the bottom door seal is even reached by the water. The door seals are actually splash guards if you like, not a totally watertight seal as you would find in a washing machine.

What can and, does, happen is that cheap plastic spray arms will split and the water is misdirected towards the seal directly, which the seal was never designed to cope with and... leak. We get asked for a new seal which doesn't solve the problem as that wasn't the cause in the first place.

Of course if the water gets above the seal, i.e. the dishwasher overfills, then it will almost certainly leak. This would indicate a problem with the pressure switch or sensor.

Whilst not entirely definitive things to look for would be as follows:

Spray arms split or faulty

Door seal damage, both lower and "goalpost" seal or gasket


Correct detergent use (overfoaming)

If you need to fix your dishwasher leak call Mr Rogers now and get a technician now with the Emergency Service Call.

The dishwasher is leaking from underneath

This is, again, one of those faults that can be pretty much anything as there's two things to bear in mind here. Water flows down with gravity so you first of all have to determine the source, not the result and also that almost all the "wet" parts of the dishwasher are in the base as we said earlier. So sometimes finding out where the leak is coming from can be difficult but to put the fault right, that is what is required.

Possible common causes would include:

Pump faulty, leaking

Main recirculation motor seal leaking

Hose failure

Sump seal

Regeneration chamber


Incorrect detergent use (overfoaming)

If you need to fix your dishwasher leak call Mr Rogers now and get a technician now with the Emergency Service Call.

The dishwasher went on fire!

Okay so this isn't just so common these days, but it can still happen and it is worth a mention.

It is sad but some people make a mountain out a molehill, you get a puff of smoke and immediately the appliance has "gone on fire" and it's some sort of emergency. Sorry folks, fire means flames and not a bang accompanied by a puff of smoke or a whiff of an electrical component burnt out. An actual fire on any appliance is extremely  rare really although it can and does happen.

Normally though when we get this fault reported it will turn out to be nothing any more dramatic than a burnt out capacitor or the door wiring has shorted.

Making a good dishwasher maintenance can help you prevent many problems. Call Mr Rogers and get your dishwasher service.

The dishwasher wont' fill

Assuming that there are no error codes being thrown up the most likely cause will be the inlet valve, these are usually not too hard to replace although some do have a pressure switch attached to them.

If you need help you can call Mr Rogers to assist you on your dishwasher repair.

Read More

 Dryer Basic Fault Repair Service

Common Problems with Clothes Dryers


Fixing a clothes dryer sometimes is considered an easy task for DIY people.  But we so many electrical components involve in this appliances, you might consider hiring an expert technicians instead of fixing your dryer yourself.

The oldest type of dryer is the vented dryer, which has a dryer vent duct attached to it. This ones are very easy to repair. And are also the most reliable dryers of all. It's very easy to identify the problems with this dryer model. This dryers required a vent duct that will normally exhaust outside the the house, and sometimes the roof.

The other type of dryers is the condensner dryer. This unit doesn't required a vent attached to it. However, we need to say that these cannot be installed anywhere and there are some limitations regarding the temperatures.

We also have the low energy heat pump dryers which are now applied of mos new dryer models. These types of unitshave been used a lo for commercial applications.

Heat pump dryers  have some differences from a regular vented dryer. The main difference is that the unit has a smail heat pump, just as the air conditiones heating element. This unit won't use a standard heating element coil. 

How A Dryer Works

There are three types of dryers in residential applications, the condenser dryer, heat pump dryer and the vented dryer.

The vented dryer needs an exhaust vent to push the hot air out of the area. This vent usually goes out to the roof or a window. 

A condenser dryer is "self-condensing" meaning that the moisture removed from the clothing during the drying process is condensed internally and the water vapour either drained to the house drainage system or collected in a container which has to be manually emptied. 

In both cases the basic operating principles of the drying action are pretty much identical and so the rest of this explanation is generalized. 

When it comes to faults on a dryer, of which not heating is by far the most common, like all other appliances you need to methodically determine where the fault lies and so you have to understand how the machine works to do that. Simply guessing and blindly replacing parts until it works again is not the way to go about things. 

In any dryer there are three things that must be present for the machine to be able to dry, heat, mechanical action and airflow. If any of those fail in any way then the dryer will not dry.

Dryer Heaters And Thermostats

The heater and thermostats are the most common area to fail in some way. Normally this will be a case of simply determining which has in fact failed which is normally quite easy by simply testing the heater elements for continuity using an electrical meter. If the heater is open circuit it will require to be replaced, bearing in mind that many are in fact two elements for the different levels of heat, so check both circuits. 

If the heater is not open circuit and you have continuity then you should then look at the thermostats. Normally there are one or possibly two mounted around the heater housing but there are also often another one, possibly two, cunningly hidden on the vent, this is commonly known as the "exhaust stat". It's not so common that an exhaust stat will fail but, it does happen and how you determine the part faulty as an amateur is difficult at best as usually we will apply some heat whilst we have a meter on it to check that it turns on and off as required. 

The usual two thermostats at the heater itself will usually be a cycling thermostat and the other an overheat stat, sometimes referred to as a TOC (Thermal Overload Cutout). 

The cycling stat controls the normal dryer operation cutting in the power to the heater as and when more heat is required whilst the overheat thermostat simply does nothing until an overheat condition is recognized by it. 

It is increasingly common to find these overheat thermostats have failed or, in actual fact, have operated correctly. The overheat thermostat is in effect a safety device designed to stop the tumble dryer from overheating and, possibly, catching fire should a failure of the main cycling thermostat occur or the airflow in hindered in any way. However it is common these days that these have "tripped" with no other problem to be seen. The reason for this is almost invariably that the user has opened the door before the dryer's cool down phase has been completed. This causes latent heat to build inside the dryer thereby raising the temperature enough to trip the overheat thermostat. 

Many of these thermostats are now of the non-resettable type and therefore must be changed to resume normal operations. Under absolutely no circumstances should an overheat thermostat be by-passed, fitted incorrectly or modified or you could have a serious safety risk.

Airflow Through Your Dryer

As stated previously, in order to operate correctly your dryer needs a constant flow of air. 

This is true both internally and  externally!

We cannot stress enough how important airflow to a dryer is. If you kill the airflow you will  kill the dryer.

Simply put, a dryer draws in cool ambient air, heats it over and electrical (in most cases) heater and then "blows" that air through the clothes to condense the water content and then exhausts that out the vent. 

If you do not have a sufficient supply of air coming in then the dryer won't work correctly. If you do not have adequate airflow out then the water vapor and expelled air have nowhere to go and, the dryer won't work correctly. 

On a condenser dryer the main difference is that the expelled air will pass over a condenser (hence the name of condenser dryer) which will condense the expelled water and usually pump or drain that water to a tank which can then later be emptied. This saves the need for an external vent but does complicate the appliance somewhat. 

Common airflow problems are usually not that hard to track down and the usual complaint in this area would be poor drying performance or complaints that the dryer takes ages to dry clothes. Interestingly poor airflow is very likely not just to decrease the performance, increase the drying time but it will almost certainly mean much longer running times which will cost you a lot more in electricity. It is very worthwhile checking the dryer on a regular basis to ensure that the airflow is good. 

Check the filters first, blocked filters will mean reduced airflow and this can seriously affect the dryer's performance. This is simple routine maintenance that, if not carried out, will mean possible poor performance, longer dry times and bigger electricity bills. 

Externally make sure that the dryer is not completely encased. All dryers MUST have a good supply of air around them or you will almost certainly have problems. Whilst this should be noted upon installation it may often not come to light for months and, in some cases, years before it causes an actual failure. 

Where the dryer is vented the vent must be clear and unobstructed.

Common Tumble Dryer Faults

No heat in dryer

This is the most common failure reported, often with a simple solution on inspection. 

If the machine does not heat check for a reset button usually a small red button on the back and see if the machine works after this is pressed. These are almost always fitted to appliances manufactured by Crosslee  who make tumble dryers for just about everybody from Candy to Zanussi so it's worth having a look.

Heater faulty

Thermostat or thermostats faulty

Blocked with ooze or fluff

Safety thermostat tripped

Tumble dryer drum not turning

Again a fairly common fault to come across and, in the case of tumble dryers a faulty belt is not at all uncommon.

Belt faulty

Motor capacitor (where fitted)

Motor faulty

Jockey wheels faulty

Tumble dryer noisy

It's again not uncommon and usually fairly straightforward to find the problem however, solving the problem however is often is far from easy.

Bearings faulty

Jockey wheels faulty or worn

Felt pads worn

Motor bearings faulty

Tumble dryer not starting

This is not really a very common problem on most but some machines and older machines especially it does happen usually due to the door microswitch failing. It can also be caused by a timer failure, but that is unlikely. 

Other problems include steam, if you get steam then your appliance is not vented properly or the vent hose is broken in the main. But if you just hang the hose out the window it could well be that the condensed air is being blown back into the room! 

Bad smells from a tumble dryer are almost always caused by the vent hose having a dip in it where water gathers ad goes stale, it could be worth checking. 

Well that about covers standard dryers any other faults really require the services of an engineer.

Self-Condensing Dryers

These appliances are lot more complex and for the layman, not really to be tampered with unless you either know what you're doing or are confident in your own abilities. 

If the appliance leaks check that the water tray in its housing correctly and in not full.

If you get steam from the appliance it may be that the room is too cold make sure that the room temperature is within the limits in the instruction book. This can also happen with a normal dryer too especially if the room is too cold. 

The common problems are pretty much the same as they are for the normal dryers, but with the added complications of a condenser system. That said, make sure that the condenser itself is clear, many can be removed and cleaned.

The Big Warnings for All Dryers

Let any dryer run through its cool down phase! 

Pulling the door open to check if stuff is dry and such things will, almost certainly in a modern dryer, result in the overheat thermostat being tripped and, many are now "one-shot" devices meaning that they won't and cannot be, reset. 

Make sure filters are clear and regularly cleaned. Failure to do so will cost you both time and money. 

Ensure adequate ventilation and a ready supply of fresh air, if you don't you will have problems.

Read More

How To Repair  a Stove or Oven.


For the most part basic ovens are usually quite simple appliances until you introduce advanced features. However price sensitivity in this area, especially on contract ranges normally supplied to builders and kitchen contractors, means that a lot of the lower end products are not the best build quality by far.

The faults and information here will relate to built in ovens as well as stoves and double ovens as all operate on the same principles with the exception of ovens that also combine microwave technologies, however these are rare and not within the scope of this article.

Safety First When Working On An Oven Or Cooker

To get the best possible service we recommend to call Mr Rogers before doing anything by yourself. Sometimes you can get more faults by trying to fix one. Get a certified technician check your faulty stove, range or oven.

Common Oven And Stove Problems


The stove or oven does not heat up

This does not apply if the stove / oven is totally dead. If the fan is running and the thermostat light comes on but you get no heat (or just the thermostat light on in non-fan ovens and cookers) then the probability is that the fan element or heating elements have failed. These are usually fairly straightforward to test for continuity and to replace, however safety must be observed.


The other suspect with this sort of fault can be the main oven changeover switch. The normal arrangement is to have a changeover switch, sometimes called a "commutator", to select the various oven functions with the thermostat mounted on the back on cheaper models and a separate thermostat, often also regulating the grill temperature, on more expensive models or those with more features.


The safety thermostats or, on some models, a thermal fuse can also cause this failure although if they have failed there is normally a reason such as a faulty thermostat or poor ventilation.


It is also possible that a thermostat failure can cause this fault although this is rare.


Fan oven element

Oven element/s

Oven thermostat

Oven changeover switch

Thermal fuse/s or safety thermostats


If you need a stove technician you can call Mr Rogers and get your range fixed at an affordable price and every repair with warranty.


The stove / oven overheats and burns everything

Normally this is a simple thermostat failure which would manifest itself as this symptom.

When replacing thermostats be careful with the "“phial", this is the long "sensor" that has the temperature probe on it which is inserted into the oven cavity. You must not kink or break that phial as if you do you will have broken the part and it is rendered useless. The phial is filled with a gas which expands and contracts thereby operating the on/off action of the thermostat.

Call Mr Rogers and have you oven be check by an oven certified technician. 

The oven door isn't closing properly

Normally this will be faulty hinges or the hinge runners.

For the most part what will happen is that the hinge runners, NOT the hinges, will go faulty usually the little rollers will fail, causing the door hinges to run off true. This in turn places strain on the hinges that they were not designed to cope with and they will then fail, often snapping.

Most technicians will advise strongly that both hinges are replaced, both rollers or runners replaced, or a set of each at the same time. Replacing one is a false economy as 99.99% of the time if one has gone the other is sure to follow very soon.

Door hinges

Door hinge rollers/runners


The oven door fell off!

See previous, there is really no other reason or cause.

Or simply call Mr Rogers. We have appliance factory trained technicians. 

The units are burning at either side of the oven or cooker

Under normal circumstance this will be caused by a faulty door seal where the oven or cooker is a few years old or possibly by the door not sealing correctly due to faulty hinges or runners/rollers, see above.

On newer appliances that have not been installed too long (months, not years) it will almost certainly be either poor installation with inadequate ventilation, not enough space allowed between the oven front and the adjacent cupboard doors or poor quality kitchen cabinetry in general. It is virtually unheard of for this to be caused by a fault with the appliance, other than physical damage causing the door to not seal correctly, where there is no fault with the thermostat.

So for older appliances:

Oven or cooker door seal faulty

 Oven or cooker door hinges faulty

Oven door hinge rollers/runners

Possible oven thermostat fault 

For new machines:

Physical damage to oven (transit damage)

Inadequate ventilation

Inadequate spacing between oven and cupboard doors

Poor kitchen doors that cannot withstand temperatures of 100?C Possible thermostat fault

It doesn’t matter if your stove is new or old, Mr Rogers can help you fix your faulty range. We offer Same Day Service and Emergency Service Call. 

The oven door or knobs are too hot

This is a common complaint with new appliances.
In essence, when installed correctly, the chances of the oven not meeting BS Standard is almost impossible so much so that we have only come across such an instance once or twice in tens of thousands tested over the years. The accepted solution is that replacing with a superior model fitted with better cooling ability or with a cooling fan (many cheaper models, especially contract ranges) as many do not have these fitted as standard to reduce costs. 

Call Mr Rogers and have a technician check your stove today. 

The oven or stove cuts out after it's been on for a while. Stove burner suddenly turns off.

This is an overheating problem which can be caused by the main oven thermostat or a faulty safety thermostat that will be causing the problem. It can also be caused by a failure of the cooling fan, where fitted, but usually these go noisy before failing, only rarely do they go open circuit.

Safety thermostats are used to prevent the oven or cooker overheating and causing physical damage and are usually mounted on the outside of the actual oven cavity. They can be hard to find as all too often they are buried in the insulation surrounding the oven cavity if the wires are not evident and easily seen.

Main oven thermostat 

Faulty oven safety thermostat

Faulty oven cooling fan motor

Poor installation, ventilation issue

No matter what your problem is you have an expert to call. Call Mr Rogers and ask a certified stove technician to  help you fix your stove burners or oven heating element. 

The oven or stove is noisy

Noise from the stove is rare but noise in the oven is limited to being produced by the moving parts so the fan motor and cooling fan motor are the most obvious causes where fitted. When new it is not uncommon for a cooling fan motor especially to be misaligned or damaged giving off a screeching sound as the blades catch the casing.

On older ovens and stove a bearing failure in either motor will cause this issue and, in the case of fan motors, if the fault is not rectified reasonably quickly the fan element may fail as well as the motor turns slower than it should allow the fan element to overheat. In some cases the fan blades may even "clip" the element, again leading to its premature failure.

It is worth noting that some rattling type noises can be caused by loose screws, faulty hinges etc.

Fan oven motor failure

Oven cooling fan motor failure

Physical damage

No one likes a noisy oven. If you have this problem you can call Mr Rogers and ask for an oven specialist to  repair your oven. 

Why does a fan run after I switch the oven off?

This is a cool down period and can vary massively from appliance to appliance and even from kitchen to kitchen as it is dependent on the temperature that the machine was running at, the insulation (how good it is) and the ventilation of the cabinets in which the oven or cooker is housed. It is not uncommon for a cooling fan to run on for half an hour or more after the oven is switched off and this is perfectly normal.

You can call Mr Rogers and ask a technician for tips on energy saving or giving your stove maintenance. 

The oven door seal is faulty where can I get a new one?

Door seals are easy to spot on failure as they tend to break up and they are normally easy to replace, most being simply clipped into place. We can send a technician to your home to check your stove and see what type of seal we need to ordered. Once we have the oven seal we will call you and schedule and appointment. We have Same Day Service, Next Day Service and Emergency Service available for your convenience. 

 How do I clean the oven?

We hope to have a more detailed article on this in the near future however as a start some tips are detailed here:

Refer to the user guide for instructions on removing the door and door glasses

Do not use abrasive cleaners where there is stenciled lettering or legends

For oven interiors, but not  self-cleaning panels, Fairy Power Spray is excellent

To clean inside the door, between the glass, disassembly of the door is usually required

Knobs usually "pull off" for cleaning, gently prise if required

Do not clean panels with wire wool or "Brillo" pads as you will damage the surfaces

Do not use any chemical cleaners on self-cleaning panels, you will ruin them

If you need a certified technician to clean the oven for you, call Mr Rogers. 

How do I clean the oven door?

See above, but most oven doors can be removed for cleaning and, if possible, this is normally detailed in the instruction manual. If you need help or advised on how to clean your oven door you can call Mr Rogers and scheduled an appointment for a technician to visit you. 

The door glass has shattered, why?

We have had much debate on this subject and the short answer is that there is no definitive answer to the question, we can only tell you what we do know to be fact or has been advised by the manufacturers.

The problem can be caused by minor defects in the glass and these can be caused in many way including:

Hotpots from resting hot dishes on the glass

Slamming the door which can weaken the glass

Leaving wet dishtowels either on the glass or in contact hanging on the door causing a temperature differential

Impact damage

Temperature regulation problem

Improper installation, ventilation

Large casserole dishes (or similar) touching the inner glass whilst cooking

Oven thermostat problem (overheating)

Oven door seal faulty

Oven door hinges faulty

As you can see there has been a number of reasons put forward but, unfortunately, the evidence often lies in a thousand pieces making determining the reason for the glass to explode (as it is often reported) virtually impossible.

The upshot of it is that this does happen on occasion and can happen to any brand, no one brand has escaped this phenomena and there is no definitive time scale in which it will happen nor any definitive reason other than a thermostat failure or, possibly, the hinges and door seal as they can be ascertained.

With either the inner or outer door glass not properly in place do not use the oven for safety reason, it can be dangerous to do so.

If you need to replace you oven door or door handle you can visit Mr Rogers or call us and ask a technician to assist you. 

The light inside the oven is faulty

Normally this is simply a case of replacing the bulb. However is the bulb cover is stuck, it often happens due to the build up of cooking grease, then you may have to smash the cover (carefully) to access the bulb. Occasionally a full light assembly is required.

If you do have to smash the bulb get an old towel and place it over the lamp cover and smash. The towel should catch most of the glass, stop you getting cut or shards of glass flying at your face as well as protecting the oven liner.

Most common bulbs used for ovens and cookers are available from this link, make sure that you use a correctly rated bulb for the temperature or the new one could explode!

A Technician help you identify the main problem. Call Mr Rogers now and ask for the stove repair service. We offer Same Day Service Call, and Emergency Service Call. 

The oven is totally dead

First things first, check the electricity supply and make sure it is okay.

Next check that the oven is not on automatic, if you are not sure check the manual.

Next, it has become increasingly popular for builders to cut costs by not installing a proper 30 Amp cooker supply, instead placing ovens on a 13A socket and plug. The problem is that invariably the socket will be behind the oven and you have to take the oven out from its housing to check the fuse.

After that check the mains cable with a meter (DO NOT LIVE TEST )

If you can’t find the problem call Mr Rogers and let a technician check your range for you. 

The oven door handle is broken, is it easy to change and can I get a new one?

Depends on the oven. Some are really simply, being only two screws to release and change and others require a total stripdown of the door.

Just call Mr Rogers to have an advise on how to do it. 

What's the black glue that holds the door glass or hinges on?

It is this special heat glue that is used for these types of jobs. Bear in mind that you must allow this glue to set completely before refitting any components glued with it.

If you think that black glue is not doing his function correctly you can call Mr Rogers and ask for advise. 

The grill element in my oven or cooker doesn't work

This would usually indicate that the grill element is faulty.

Also check the main oven changeover switch, energy regulator (grill) if fitted and any overheat thermostats.

Grill element 

Oven changeover switch

Overheat thermostat 

Main oven thermostat, if used to regulate the grill temperature

If you need to repair your grill element from your oven you can call Mr Rogers and schedule a service call. 

The outer part of the grill element doesn't glow

They mostly don't. Most, especially continental grills, do not use an infra-red outer zone and therefore they do not "“glow" as such but they are still heating.

The only way to safely check this is to carry out a continuity check on the element itself.

Get a stove technician to check it for you. Call Mr Rogers 

There's smoke from the oven, what is it?

Invariably spillage except on a new installation or when a new element is fitted. The elements come with a protective coating which must "burn off" before you commence cooking.

There is nothing in the oven that is flammable or that can cause any odours or smoke in normal use and so the cause must be external in origin. 



Read More

Call Mr Rogers Appliances Today (864) 624.6645

32594 516136675098975 1160017722 n